By Malene Birger marked its return to the runway after a six-year break with a Spring 2027 show that was as much about place and identity as it was about clothes. Creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt invited guests to her parents’ green estate outside Copenhagen, where models followed a gravel path beside a pond, framed by lawns, trees, shrubbery, and garden sculptures in the late-afternoon light. The setting was chosen to underline the collection’s back-to-basics message and the brand’s desire to reassert itself in Denmark.
Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt presented the show alongside newly appointed head designer Sydney Roark, with the collection built around the idea of serving women from day to night. Details such as sun-print motifs, sun-shaped buttons, and Caribou’s “Sun” on the soundtrack reinforced that theme, while the palette followed the passage of time, beginning in white, shifting into warm golden tones, and ending in black. The result was polished and elegant, though the overall impression was intentionally restrained.
Rather than pushing into radical new territory, the collection read like a careful overview of the label’s recent and longer-term references. A tassel on the back of a high-collared raincoat recalled resort 2027, ponyskin echoed an earlier season, and backless scarf-like tops pointed back to the years when Maja Dixdotter designed for the brand. Mirror embroidery on an airy evening look nodded both to founder Malene Birger’s taste for sparkle and to Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s preference for refined embellishment.
There was also a whisper of ’90s glamour in the clothes’ fluid movement and easy, natural attitude, with a possible nod to the sheer shimmering dress once worn by Kate Moss. According to Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt, returning to Copenhagen’s calendar matters because the brand is Danish, has a long history, and wants to be present in its home market. The show reinforced that point, positioning By Malene Birger as part of the city’s ongoing fashion momentum.
Source: vogue.com
